Two Markets in One
The Ground Floor vs The Food Hall
Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA
The Mercato Centrale operates on two completely different levels — literally and figuratively.
Ground floor: A working Florentine food market, open since 1874. Butchers, fishmongers, cheese vendors, and greengrocers selling to local restaurants and residents. The pace is fast, the quality is excellent, and the prices are for locals. The lampredotto (tripe) counter here is arguably the best in Florence — Da Nerbone has operated in the market since 1872.
First floor (upstairs): A 2014 renovation transformed the upper floor into a glass-roofed food hall with 15+ artisan food stalls. This is where you're eating lunch. The concept: everyone in the group orders from different stalls, all sit together at the central communal tables.
What to Order
The Good Stuff
- Lampredotto: Slow-cooked tripe in tomato sauce, served in a roll dipped in broth. The quintessential Florentine street food — Da Nerbone, ground floor
- Pasta station: Fresh pici, ribollita, pappa al pomodoro — properly made, not tourist versions
- Trapizzino: Roman street-food triangular pastry pockets stuffed with slow-cooked meats or vegetables
- Pizza al taglio: By weight, served to order
- Il Latini upstairs stall: The legendary trattoria has a stall in the food hall — their ribollita (bean and bread soup) is exceptional
- Cheese counter: Formaggeria with aged Parmigiano, local pecorino, and marzolino
Practical Details