Overview
Medieval Red Brick on a Ridge
Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA
Certaldo Alto (Upper Certaldo) is one of the most perfectly preserved medieval hilltop villages in Tuscany — and one of the least visited, because it's off the main tourist circuit between Florence and Siena. The upper town, connected to the lower town (Certaldo Basso) by funicular, is built almost entirely of the distinctive red-orange brick of the Val d'Elsa. The streets are paved, narrow, and level; the buildings are the originals, not restored pastiches.
The town's main claim to fame is Giovanni Boccaccio (1313–1375), author of the Decameron — 100 stories told by young Florentines sheltering from the Black Death in a villa outside Florence. Boccaccio was born in Paris (or possibly Certaldo; the question was disputed even in his own lifetime) but lived his last decades in Certaldo and died here. His house is preserved as a museum.
What to See
The Upper Town
The Funicular
The funicular (funicolare) runs from Piazza Boccaccio in the lower town to the medieval gate at the top. About €1.50 each way. The ride takes 3 minutes. Critical: it closes at midday. Do this first thing — don't browse the lower town or have coffee first.
Casa del Boccaccio
The restored house of Giovanni Boccaccio, now a museum. Small but interesting — documents, manuscripts, and context for the Decameron. His tomb is in the attached church of SS Michele e Jacopo. The medieval interior of the church is remarkable: painted wooden ceiling, 14th-century frescoes.
Palazzo Pretorio (Town Hall)
The old town hall — facade covered in stone coats of arms of the Florentine vicars who governed Certaldo. Inside: frescoed rooms from the 14th century. The loggia offers views over the Val d'Elsa in both directions.
The Streets
The best thing about Certaldo Alto is simply walking through it. Via Rivellino, Via Boccaccio, the small piazzas. The combination of red brick, terracotta roof tiles, and the occasional cypress tree against blue sky is one of the quintessential Tuscan images. Very few other tourists.
Practical Details